SHAVER FORCED AIR
OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE

Fed up with High Oil Propane, Electric prices? 

Smoke in your house? Bugs, trash, bark from carrying wood in?

Heat your whole house with a clean, efficient 
Forced-Air OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE!
GO GREEN!

No more $3.00 - $4.00 Oil or high dollar Propane.
No more lugging wood into the house!
No smoke in your house ever again! No bugs either! NO mess!

This furnace doesn't burn up the oxygen in your house or suck cold air in from outside!
NO DRIED OUT AIR

Save your lungs and help prevent allergies too.

WOOD is still cheap! ...AND PLENTIFUL!
and use large unsplit logs - in the SHAVER OUTSIDE FORCED-AIR WOOD FURNACE - 
the cheapest wood of all!

Have Clean Heat, Clean Air, Clean Floors and walls too!

• No logs to carry in = no messy ashes and bugs in the house!
• You can have your outdoor furnace conveniently located it near the
  wood pile, so you don't have to carry wood all around.
• Safety
   
  • The chance of carbon monoxide build-up in your home is eliminated.
  • Eliminate allergies by getting the smoke outside!
  • The chance of a gas explosion from your furnace in your home is eliminated.
  • Indoor pollutants of harmful gases and fumes are eliminated too.
  • The chance of chimney and flue fires is eliminated, in your home.
    
• If you live in a suburban or rural area near a source of cheap wood, you could heat your
  home for the entire season for the cost of one month's electric heat bill, propane or oil bill. 
• An outdoor furnace requires less tending than a smaller indoor wood stove or insert.
• No inside oxygen is used to fuel the heat like other wood or gas burning units.
• Does not cause respiratory problems like burning wood indoors. No dry air either.
• Wood is cheaper than buying it for a fireplace. Instead of 12-18' wood split,
  you can put 26 or 40" pieces in this one and use full rounds.
  No splitting wood; that makes buying wood even cheaper.
• Burning wood, a total renewable resource, is much less expensive than other fuels.
• The cost of electric, gas, oil, or propane can be very erratic.
  The low cost of wood remains constant - or in many cases, FREE!.
• The furnace hooks up to any existing gas pack, heat pump or forced air system
   - or can be used without any exiting heating system or ductwork.

Most people say that they pay for their furnace in 2 years or less! 
Imagine getting a 50% return on your money!
Where else can you get that? An outdoor furnace is the BEST INVESTMENT EVER!

Lights come shipped inside the firebox,
so they don't break in shipping.

A water furnace is shown here for color only.

Get the Bugs, Trash, Wood and Smoke outside.
Your lungs will love you and your new SHAVER!

Many people report getting 
lower rates because
they are getting the fire and that
related hazard, out of the house!

No more bending over, straining your back to load wood! Cam action safety latch!

A PROVEN and trusted design - since 1972!

We feel we build the safest furnace
(nothing electrical, unprotected on the outside
 of the furnace).

We have the BEST PRICES and a Very Friendly Staff to help you every step of the way.

These furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front (black or white), for ease
and safety when loading your wood at night.

It's a MOTION LIGHT!

No switches. No forgetting to turn it off. If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!

New, nicer looking furnace!

Now with nice neat looking butyl tape and grommets.

Think the door isn't big enough?
A 15" round oak log, 26" long, will weigh a whopping 97lb
 - more than most people can ever lift! 
Trust me, the door is more than big enough for anything
you can lift into the furnace
AND the thick door frame
will take a pounding as you throw them in!

18" x 18"  - The TOUGHEST door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated by a 3" air shield AND insulation. This plate keeps the hot air in and deflects it off the door. With very little metal to transfer heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the door.

There is fiberglass insulation BETWEEN the plates now!

Very heavy duty hinges! OURS won't fall off!

Click on Pictures for a Larger image
1/4" thick flue pipe - will not get damaged by throwing wood in it.

The chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the gas and heat - is trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of efficiency.  

This way the air has to cool off to find its way down and out the chimney. This is also a better idea since you don't have hard-to-clean baffles getting a creosote buildup on them.

Having the chimney come down low
and stops the heat, gases and smoke from rushing right out the chimney AND creates a HUGE Secondary burn chamber to burn off all the gases from the wood - a HUGE source of energy!

When wood starts to burn it's the gas that burns first!

Another advantage is that the chimney exits through the air chamber, further heating it up - for free! Nothing does better!

These are some of the reasons that our water furnace qualifies for the Federal TAX REBATE using the exact same design!  (The forced-air furnace does not qualify for the tax rebate because we have not tested it)

This also means that you will burn less wood than with other manufacturer's furnaces, who don't qualify for the rebate and therefore you will use more wood - being less than 75% efficient. That's proof, not just rhetoric.

Over 50% thicker!

.380" Thick Steel Firebox (3/8") - WILL NOT burn through - EVER! Will not crack or split like stainless steel!

We have never had a firebox failure, crack, split, rust-through or leak in 39 years of making the 3/8" thick firebox. After all, it is 50% thicker (or more) than most of the competition!

Compare Firebox thickness to another popular furnace at only .125" and another at .1875" thick. 

We have an ash pan! Some other makes don't even have an ash pan!! That makes it HARD to clean out! You have to let the fire die down  or move the burning wood aside to scoop out hot ashes. OUCH!

Only one factory seam in tube so it doesn't weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a solid piece of tubular steel (drill casing)! It is X-rayed before it is shipped.

It WILL NOT RUST through in a lifetime! Will not get stress cracks like Stainless Steel!

We have furnaces 30 years old and more, still in use today!

The removable grate is made out of
super thick 3/4" inch bar stock.
We have NEVER had one burn through!

Most grates (if they have them)
are only 3/8" - 1/2")

Click on Picture
for a larger image

The blower in the back is a great aid
in getting a fire started. It also recovers
the air temperature much quicker,
and burns the wood up more completely
because oxygen is being fed to
the bottom of the flame - 
like blacksmith feeds his fire!
 

The fan blower determines how hot the fire burns and therefore how hot the air in the furnace gets. A thermostat on the back of the furnace tells the blower when to turn off and on (and has a solenoid activated door/damper), so it doesn't run all the time and will not waste wood.

This is a LOT more efficient than a manual damper will ever be!

The air blows into the bottom of the fire, through the grate - just like a blacksmith's forge. That's better than blowing in from the front door (very obvious when you see that big box on the door) and into the side of the fire, as all the others do (if they even have a fan).

You get more complete burning fire when the oxygen is fed through the bottom!

Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox,
only minutes after reloading with wood!

Firebox size on the Thermowind 1000 is 36" wide x 28" deep x 27" high (due to ash pan in bottom). All sizes O.D.

The air chamber totally surrounds the firebox, top, bottom, sides, front and back - unlike others.

The chimney is also surrounded by air, drawinf off heat.

The ash receptacle (and hot coals) are surrounded with air too, in the bottom!

Forced air fan for home (left) and forced air fan for furnace with solenoid activated damper fan. 

The fans and thermostat
included, have a one-year warranty.

1500 CFM blower on left above.
2000 CFM on the ThermoWind 2000

You get a solenoid activated damper too, INCLUDED!

Most parts are available everywhere.

There are NO proprietary circuit boards!

In case of a power failure, you can still have a nice warn house, when everyone else is cold!!

Requires a 2000 Watt Generator for the ThermoWind 1000 model
and a standard portable 4000 watt generator for the 2,000 model,
(this is because of the startup power that the motors take),
but you will have plenty of power left over for lights, small appliances, etc.

You MAY need an heating and air guy to hook up the duct work, but all you really need is an adapter from a round 12" pipe to your rectangle (usually) pipe..

Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a comprehensive manual, with lots of pictures and diagrams, that will help you every step of the way. You can also call me or the factory for assistance.

The ash "pan" area is approx. 16" wide x 32" long and is 8" deep. It is a non-removable ash pan and it is easily cleaned at the front, through the door with a small shovel or hoe.

There is an fan/blower that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen to the fire. It is thermostatically controlled and solenoid activated for greater efficiency, to keep the air temperature in the furnace between certain parameters. 

This is far better than an inefficient manual draft opening.

Our furnace is so strong and well-made,
that the chimney alone is strong enough
to carry even the 2000 lb. weight of
our biggest forced-air furnace!

We move them like this every day!

The exterior is made of Heavy Duty Siding - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It has a Lifetime film integrity Warranty for walls and roof and a 30-year warranty against fade and chalk. 10 year edge rust warranty against acid rain.

 20 colors to best suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.

There are legs on the bottom with the siding surrounding the bottom to ground level.

Concrete pad is recommended but not necessary.

Use railroad ties, solid concrete blocks/pavers.
 

The chimney is made out of Schedule 40, 1/4" thick, solid steel pipe and is surrounded by air as well. It tops out at about 90" feet above ground. You can EASILY add standard 6" stove pipe extension(s) using our adapter.

Super easy access!! 

Some other manufacturers have to
have the whole hull removed by 2-3 people
to access these components!!

There is an extra large rear access hinged door. All electrical items are in back, safely behind the door/lid! 

Shaver has easy pipe (air duct) hookup and electrical hookups (simple 110V wiring). 

No special tools needed.

The easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!

We help you every step of the way!

Many people can say that they can pay for their
Shaver forced-air wood furnace in
2 years or less of propane bills! 

Start with a small chunk of wood.  :o)

You can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever you can easily handle. The bigger ones (rounds) require less cutting and no splitting so they cost less - about 80-90 a cord in most areas.

ANY wood is cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they have never used their propane heater after propane prices tripled!

 

Whole rounds burn longer and cleaner and
it's so nice not to have to split the wood!!

Shove the logs in on top of each other.

Use the 6 foot poker (provided) for safety to push them in.

That big poker comes with the furnace - for FREE!

Thought there wasn't a fire?

Think again!

Within a couple of minutes - literally - 
this fire was roaring!

We use state-of-the-art Solar Guard insulation all around!

Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6! It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the walls and ceiling! 

TRIPLE INSULATED (R50) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch the siding!

That gives you R22.6 in the walls and now R50 in the ceiling!

FREE in Northern U.S. states and in Canada and Alaska.

http://www.silvercote.com/solarguard_reflective_insulation.php

http://www.silvercote.com/PDF/solarguardspec.pdf

We will build YOUR furnace in any combination of 20 different, exciting colors!

LOTS of Different colors and ALL come with motion lights (black or white)! Water furnaces are shown here to display the assortment of colors.
Ocean Blue with White; White and Red; Ivory with Brown; Green with Black; White with Black; Ivory with Green

Other EXAMPLES:

Not all colors are available at all times.

We can also build your furnace without siding,
so that you can  for those who want to put it in an outbuilding
or you can apply regular siding, brick, faux (cultured) stone
or almost anything else you can imagine.

This gives you a savings of  $300.00!

Questions about stainless steel answered

Do you build with stainless steel?

Hi! 

No, we don't build stainless for several really good reasons.

Our furnaces last longer than most stainless furnaces, with MANY of our water furnaces still in use after 30 years plus!!

1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.

2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system (which will rot and fall off).

There are many cheap grades of stainless out there.

3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal of a trailer fender!! That's why you see so many split and broken apart.

Our firebox is almost 4/10th of an inch thick, as opposed to .200 in many furnaces. They never rust through.

We replaced several stainless steel Hardys and there are many leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale.

4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?

5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?

Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last longer!

If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 40 years of experience.

Best regards,

Ben